Nairobi + Mombasa: a safari and the Indian Ocean in one trip
The classic Kenyan scheme: savannah with the wildebeest migration first, then white sand on the coast. An hour of flying between them.
How the trip works
Kenya divides in two and both halves are worth seeing. The inland one is savannah: the Masai Mara, Amboseli with Kilimanjaro behind the elephants, the Rift Valley lakes with flamingos. The coastal one is the Indian Ocean with a reef, warm water and a Swahili culture older than the colonial one by centuries. Nairobi is the base for the first part, Mombasa for the second.
The safari
The Masai Mara is the main destination: five or six hours by jeep or an hour in a small plane, and the second option is often the sensible one. The Great Migration, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeest cross the Mara river, falls roughly between July and October; outside that season there is still plenty of game, just without that scene. Amboseli is closer and gives the shot of elephants against Kilimanjaro. Nairobi itself has a national park inside the city limits, an orphanage for elephant calves and a centre for Rothschild's giraffes.
The coast
Diani south of Mombasa is a long white beach considered one of the best in Africa. Watamu and Malindi to the north have a marine reserve, turtles and fishing. In Mombasa itself there is the old town with carved doors and Fort Jesus, a Portuguese fortress of the sixteenth century. The reef runs along the whole coast, so there is almost no surf and snorkelling works right off the shore.
When to go
July–October: dry, the migration, the best time for a safari. January–February is the second dry spell, also good and less busy. April–May is the season of the long rains, when some lodges close and the park roads wash out. The coast is hot and humid all year; the most comfortable stretch is the same July–September.
How long it takes
Fewer than ten days is not worth taking: the flight is long, a safari needs at least three nights in a park, and the coast at least four to be a rest rather than a transfer. Four nights in Nairobi with trips out and six on the ocean is a workable proportion.
How to choose a park
The Masai Mara is open savannah with the best chance of predators and the river crossings of the migration. Amboseli has elephants and Kilimanjaro behind them; the park is small and easy. Nakuru and Naivasha are lakes with flamingos, rhinos and giraffes, closer to Nairobi. Tsavo is enormous and wild, with fewer animals per square kilometre and fewer people too. For a single trip take the Mara; with enough days, the Mara plus Amboseli — they complement each other.
How a safari works
The day splits in two: a drive at dawn and a second towards evening, while in the middle of the day the animals hide and you rest at camp. The vehicles are open-topped jeeps with a driver-guide who finds the game and talks to colleagues by radio. Accommodation ranges from tented camps with shared showers to lodges with pools; the tented version is closer to the point and often more interesting. What to bring: neutral clothing, binoculars, and a warm layer for the morning — the savannah is cold at dawn.
Practical matters
For a Russian passport, entry to Kenya is arranged through an electronic authorisation applied for in advance — not a visa in the usual sense, but it must be submitted before departure; check the current rules in the visa section. A yellow fever certificate is required when arriving from certain countries and is recommended in any case, and malaria prophylaxis should be discussed with a doctor. Driving is on the left. And a practical note: cash shillings are needed constantly in the parks and on the coast.
Moscow → Nairobi → Mombasa
Route and nights go into the form — adjust the date and passengers.